Can I touch your beard? I ask my best friend, and he says yes, but I’m shy suddenly, wondering if it will feel prickly under fingers that haven’t touched a man, any man, since coming out in 1989.

. . . zooming through Allahabad’s lawless traffic, my bicycle racing sixteen-wheeler trucks, I’m navigating Google Maps with one hand, readjusting my N95 dustmask with the other.